Angel Falls

What an adventure! I could write a mini novel
describing our trip of a lifetime, but I’ll try to be brief. Our trip inland started on Sunday October 21st with a 6 hour bus ride from Cumana to Ciudad Bolivar. Our friends Bev & Ross from Raft were with us. The next morning we boarded a 5 passenger Cessna for the 1 hour 15 minute flight over the Savanna, the Orinoco River Delta, the Tepuis and numerous mountains before arriving in Canaima.

Canaima is an Indian Village that is part of the Parque Nacional.

From here we had a boat ride across the Canaima Lagoon, crossing in front of a series of 7 waterfalls before arriving at the Tomas Bernal Basecamp on Isla Anatoliy.

After relaxing in our hammocks & enjoying a wonderful lunch, we joined another group for a half hour hike to Sapo (frog) and Sapito (small frog) Falls. Sapo Falls is 40 meters high by 80 meters wide. Our first thrill of the trip was walking behind the Falls. The roar of rushing water was almost deafening as we cautiously inched our way to the other side.

The Brink of Sapo Falls

Trail Behind Sapo Falls Looking out from behind the Falls

That night we slept in our hammocks under the shelter of a thatched roof hut.

Tuesday morning our group of 10, our guide Jose,

our boat driver Joel and his assistant loaded into

the motorized dugout canoe for the 4 & ½

hour ride up the rivers Carrao & Churun to the

Island Raton. We walked around the first set of

rapids while the boat powered through them.

After that there was no mercy.

Zooming along at top speed with a 45 hp engine,

we basically were white water canoeing though

the too numerous to mention rapids as well as enjoying the scenery during the flat water spells. I still have a smile on my face remembering the thrills as we careened around rocks and through canyons, not to mention the fresh water splashing and soaking us on a regular basis...

Yes, the boat wet through here.

Early afternoon we began the 1 & ½ hour hike through the jungle to Salto Angel. It was a rugged climb, far more challenging than we expected but what a feeling of accomplishment when we stood by the natural pool at the base of the Falls. Pat and the others swam in the cooling waters while I nursed a nasty gash on my shin. (In the excitement of approaching the falls, I slipped on the wet rocks).

That night we enjoyed a roasted chicken dinner prepared by our guides on an open fire barbeque. The camp was very rustic compared to the base camp at Canaima but the full view of Angel Falls across the river was spectacular. Again, we slept in hammocks. I wish we had space on the boat for hammocks, they are sooo comfortable.
Wednesday morning we enjoyed the return trip down the rivers with an early morning stop at the Happiness Pool for a swim. After lunch, we loaded onto another Cessna for the flight back to Ciudad Bolivar. I wish the tour didn’t have to end; it would have been nice to spend another evening at the base camp. Well the purpose of the tour was to visit the Angel Falls, which are the Tallest in the World, however the rest of the trip was just as exciting and rewarding and only added another dimension to the thrill & enjoyment. (the internet is not co-operataing so I will have to post more pictures in another entry)
Till next time.
Miriam

Monday October 15th
We headed to the most eastern part of the Golfo to the Rio Cariaco and anchored in 10 feet of water before taking the dingy up the River as far as we could go. There are more different species of birds than we will ever be able to identify but the highlight is the Scarlet Ibis. We saw some of these birds in Trinidad but not to the extent that we did in this spot.

At dusk, hundreds of these red birds come to roost for the night in an area at the mouth of the river. The trees look like Christmas trees covered in red. The biggest bummer is that the battery died in the camera so we were unable to get a picture of the trees. When I got up at 6 am, the trees were still littered with birds but by the time I got the camera out, they had all flown away. Thank goodness we have memories. Not everything can be caught in photos.

Tuesday October 16th
After a lazy 6 hour downwind sail (heading west), the wind swung to the West and we covered the last 7 miles to Laguna Grande in less than an hour, heeled at 20 ° & accompanied by a pod of dolphins. Dolphins abound in the Golfo but only seem to be interested in swimming with you when you’re doing hull speed.
It is our 3rd visit to this incredible lagoon. Pat’s back had been bothering him during our last visits, so now that it was better, we returned to do the trek up the ridge. It’s hard to imagine the contrast of the rainforests to our south and the desert mountains to our north. Every evening we watch the lightening shows and rainstorms to the south while we are high & dry a few miles away in a desert landscape. A truly magical country.

Wednesday we started our climb up the ridge around 9 am and enjoyed a perfect morning of clear skies and a fair breeze to help keep us cool. The panoramic views were out of this world. I still can’t believe how amazing this landscape is!!!

Can you find Rhiannon?

Isla de Margarita is 20 miles to the north.

Thursday morning we hated to leave but the Angel Falls were waiting.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.

Still Behind - October 10th

October 10th.



While in Medregal Village we organized a bus trip with some of the other cruisers to go to Caripe & the Guacharo Cave.





The cave is eight miles long and one of the world’s largest caves. It is inhabited by about 18,000 guacharo birds that live in the dark and echo-locate like bats. They only come out at night to feed on fruits. The first part of our tour was very noisy with the sound of the birds but as we trekked deeper into the cave, the only sound
was the trickling of water from the stalactites
and stalagmites. It was utterly incredible.



















The Exit/Entrance to the Guacharo Cave








The all day bus trip though the mountainous countryside and rainforests was more than breathtaking. The more we see of Venezuela, the more we love it. The diverse landscapes are amazing. But to top it all off, the people are what really makes the difference. You just have to come here yourself to discover how warm and welcoming the Venezuelan people are. I think we have found our favourite country. (But I’m getting ahead of myself).

Fair Winds,
Miriam

I am very very behind in updating the blog but here goes.

Medregal Village
10°31.96’ N
63°48.00’ W

October 3rd. After a very relaxing stay in Laguna Grande & a trip to Cumana to restock with groceries etc. we headed east down the Golfo de Cariaco to check out Medregal Village. Medregal is a small resort and boat yard who really welcomes cruisers and invites you to anchor your boat in front of the resort. For the price of the occasional beer, you are able to use all the facilities. We spent a lot of time lounging around the pool and accessing the free internet at the poolside bar.

The unbelievable thing was that it was a serve yourself bar and you just wrote down on your tab what you had. We felt like we were staying at an all inclusive resort. Jean Marc is the owner and chief cook at the restaurant. Saturday nights he cooks up a special Bar-B-Q for the cruisers. He also provides transportation to the local market on Sat. mornings to stock up on fresh supplies. I have only mentioned a few of the perks that Jean Marc and his wife Joleda provide. It is an incredible place!!!
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.

A Different Paradise

We have found a different kind of paradise! After the dense lush green rain forests of Trinidad and the Windward Islands, only pictures can truly describe what we are enjoying now. From the cockpit is a panoramic view of a desert landscape dominated by red and yellow cliffs, showered with gray & green cactus, bordered at the shore by mangroves. All this in an incredible lagoon that is a little more than 2 miles long. The lagoon is full of enough little nooks and crannies to easily harbour a couple of dozen boats AND you would never see your neighbour. Several years ago the lagoon protected over 150 boats who sought shelter here from a hurricane that threatened Grenada. Today (September 24th) there is only one other boat in the lagoon and she is out of sight from us.
Over night the water is so calm it is like a mirror. It’s wonderful to have good night sleeps after the poor rolly anchorages we experienced in Porlamar and Trinidad. In the morning we are woken by the sound of baby goats bleating as they search for their mothers on the craggy hillside & the swoosssh of wings of the Frigate Birds as they scoop up the fish that swim in the shade of Rhiannon’s Hull. In contrast the splash of the Pelican is loud enough to startle you. Pelican’s are graceful flyers and they glide silently forever above the surface of the water but when they land, it is the most hilarious crash landing imaginable. Occasionally the peace is broken by the sound of an outboard motor as the local fishermen slowly cruise by in their wooden pirogues. We always receive a big wave and Holá as they pass by. There is a small fishing village of about 5 families that live in one of the bays near the entrance to the lagoon. They live a very simple life and seem very happy. They often come by the boats looking for swim masks to help them dive for mangrove oysters. Next time we are in a city we will buy a supply of masks to give them. Maybe trade for some Spanish lessons? Hardly anyone speaks English so we are desperately trying to learn a few words everyday. Meanwhile sign language is usually the most effective means of communication.

I think we will stay here until our food and fresh water runs out. Until next time
Fair Winds
Miriam
10°35.1’ N
64°02.0’ W

Laguna Grande,
Golfo de Cariacou,
Venezuela

Isla de Margarita

September 3rd
Our permission to stay on Los Testigos for 4 days was over so we headed to Isla de Margarita. It was a calm day and we ended up motor sailing the 50 miles to the anchorage in Bahia de Guaraguao. It is a huge bay surrounded by the city of Porlamar & is home to over one hundred cruising boats. Some cruisers stay here for all of the hurricane season while others (like us) come to visit and restock our ship’s stores.

Porlamar is a duty free port and is a shopaholic’s dream come true. (I really HATE shopping). I have never seen so many big malls and shopping districts in my life. The hardest part about shopping other than the crowds of people is getting used to the local currency. We changed $500.00 and became instant Millionaires. One US dollar is worth 2150 Bolivares at the bank but some businesses will give you a much better exchange rate, as they need the US$ to purchase goods & services outside of their country. Needless to say, everything is very inexpensive compared to the rest of the countries we have visited in the Caribbean. It is a real treat to pay 1500 B’s (about 40 cents) for a beer in a bar or 850 B’s (22 cents) in the grocery store, or 12,000 B’s ($4) for a nice bottle of wine. Taxi’s average about 7000 B’s a ride (less than $2) so we didn’t experience the local bus system here. One day we hired a taxi for 35,000 B’s an hour (about $9) to take us to a half dozen little shops in the different areas of town. We would never have found these places on our own. Needless to say we thought we would save money and get back on budget once we arrived in Venezuela; however it is easy to spend a lot of money here too. On the other hand, we were able to fill our lockers with non perishable food and refreshments, and the fridge was overflowing with fresh produce when we left. Hopefully we will encounter some Gold Star Days soon. (A Gold Star Day is what cruisers refer to as a day you don’t spend any money).
Marina Juan and the Rum Bar each offer a “free” dinghy dock for you to “park” your dinghy while going ashore, however you are expected to Tip the dock boy about 2000 B’s for looking after your dinghy. Marina Juan is also the pick up point for a free bus service 3 times a week to one of the local shopping malls plus he has a Happy Hour every afternoon. It’s a great spot to meet other cruisers. At 1000 B’s for a beer, everyone wants to buy a round. We ran into some old friends and acquaintances and made some new friends as well.

It seems that we always stay longer at places like this than intended, usually due to boat maintenance or repairs. One of our propane tanks ran out and while changing to the other tank, Pat noticed that the fitting on one of the hoses was leaking. This turned into a full 2 days of searching for a replacement. We finally ended up having a shop make a new hose for us. While we were at it, we decided to install a fitting for the Bar-B-Q so that we could run it off our main tanks instead of using those little green disposable propane bottles. This was truly a nice upgrade, one that we had been talking about doing for a long time.

Not all areas we visit are paradise. Porlamar demonstrates the contrast between the rich and the poor of this country. The economy of Venezuela is in question as the gap between the rich and poor widens. Venezuelans from the mainland come here to shop and to holiday while the Barios (shantytowns) get hidden behind concrete walls.

The army comes in and builds and paints walls with doors & windows in them to surround & hide the rubble and shacks that people live in. At first they look like neat little neighbourhoods until you peer through the open doors. It is hard to imagine that people live in such hovels. It’s also hard to get a really good handle on the local politics when you don’t speak the language. One thing is clear, that the people either really love or really hate Presidente Chavez.

Sunday September 16th. It’s time to move on & in the company of Cheers, we head to the Golfo de Cariacou. We first met Bob & Zan on Cheers in New York City September 2005. We were new to the cruising life while, at that time, they had been out for 2 years. It truly is an incredible cruising community. As much as we miss family & friends from our land home, we form new friendships as we go, only to say goodbye & then meet up again in some other foreign port. One of the reasons to go to the Golfo was to catch up with Bev & Ross on Raft, a couple from the Barrie area in Ontario whom we first met in Georgetown in the Bahamas, January 2006. Since then we have crossed wakes many times.
Till next time,
Fair Winds
Miriam
10°57.1 N
63°50.0’W

Tropical Storm Felix

Islas des Los Testigos

A small portion of Real Beach to the left and the cut between Testigo Pequeno & Testigo Grande.

The swell coming through the cut looked like reversing waves crashing towards us.

As always, our plans are due to change, usually dictated by the weather.
Friday August 31st we slept in and woke up to a weather forecast of potentially nasty weather. It was too late to run to the mainland so the anchorage between Isla Iguana and Isla Cabra looked like our best option.

We left the beach area and got settled for the coming storm. At this time it was just a Tropical Depression but something not to fool around with. We set 2 anchors and sat back to relax & wait. It was really fun watching all the activity as the local boats started to arrive. They have beautiful fishing trawlers that double as their major form of transportation. Some of the boats brought the locals back from their mainland shopping trip while other boats brought people over for the weekend party. They set up tents on the beach and played load Spanish Music. It was fun for awhile. By 3:30 am the first rain squall blew through (no wind) and the shore party continued despite the rain. The second rain shower at 4:30 calmed the party. By 6:30, the next downpour brought the wind. Felix was then officially a Tropical Storm and the centre of Tropical Storm Felix passed 25 miles to the north of us.
With 2 anchors down, the company of 2 other sailboats, 21 fishing trawlers, and over a dozen pirogues, we Comfortably rode out the storm.

Looking West: View of the village before the Storm. Looking East: View after the worst of the storm was over.

By 11 am the worst was over; by 2 pm the sun peaked out and the locals started going about their business setting traps and fishing. The weekend visitors emerged from their tents on the beach and continued their party. Such is life after a storm. Later that afternoon we enjoyed Happy Hour and Dinner with a young couple from Holland on board Tranquillo. Such is cruising life.

We just Love these Boats!

When we last visited our land home, the 2 most common questions were; Did you run into any pirates? & Did you run into any bad storms? So far the pirates are behaving themselves (since the Venezuelan Guardacosta have increased patrols in the high risk areas) and Felix passed us by before turning into a Hurricane. Our luck will continue.

Fair Winds,

Miriam

11°21.4’N
63°07.8’W

P.S. I forgot to mention how really fabulous these little islands are. It's too bad we lost a couple of days of exploring while waiting out Felix. It is another place we would love to return to some day.

Sand dunes on the East coast of Testigo Grande

Intriguing driftwood anchored in the sand