Merida, Venezuela

We woke up to rain showers the morning of February 15th so our 5 hour bus ride through the Andes Mountains to Merida was shrouded in clouds and FOG. (We haven’t seen fog since leaving the northeast coast of North America). The scenery was gorgeous even if we could only see a short distance. Merida is a large University Town & a centre for Ecotourism deep in the Andes Mountains at an elevation of over 5,000 ft (1577 m). For someone who is used to living at sea level, it was a bit of an adjustment. With 6 or 7 Universities and tons of Tour companies, there are lots of young people and young travelers around. It was good for Erin to be among kids her own age again.
The hardest part of being here was trying to decide which tours to take. We signed up with Guamanchi Expeditions & Adventure Tours for 2 different tours. They also have a beautiful Posada (a type of small hotel popular in Venezuela) where we could stay while in Merida.
Our first tour began with a ride up El Teleferico de Merida. The Merida Cable Car is the highest in the world at 15,633 ft (4.765 m) and is also the longest serial tram, 7.77 miles. It spans the magnificent national park area known as the “Sierra Nevada” and connects Merida to the tallest peaks in Venezuela. The trip consists of 4 independent sections, each one connected by a station where you get off to acclimatize to the increased altitude. At each successive stop, it got harder to breathe. The original plan was to just go up to the 3rd station as the mountain tops had been shrouded in clouds for days and days however luck was with us. It was clear at the top so the 5 of us (Pat, Erin, a young couple form Austria & me) hopped on the final tram and experienced literally breathtaking views.

Erin, Miriam & Pat

At the top.

We are on Pico Espejo, 15,633 ft (4.765 m) above sea level.

WOW! A million times.

At the summit, we experienced the panoramic view of the twin peaks of Humbolt & Bompland, 16,214 ft & 16,020 ft (4.942 m & 4.883 m), & the Timoncitos glacier on the southern slope of Pico Bolivar. WOW again.

Above the cloud forrest

Well our luck held out. As soon as we got on the tram to descend back to the 3rd station, the clouds socked in and we could no longer see where we had been.

We continued on with the rest of our tour which consisted of a 5 hour Hike/Mule/Donkey ride along precipitous trails to the village of Los Nevados. In the end we walked the last hour as my butt couldn’t stay in the saddle another minute.

Trail Riding

To partially quote the guide book, Los Nevados is “stuck way in the hell of nowhere amongst totally spectacular mountain scenery”. It is a very picturesque village perched on the mountainside. Some of the whitewashed houses capped by red tile roofs are hundreds of years old. Each family is totally self sufficient with their own livestock and farms. It’s amazing to see.

Los Nevados

That night we stayed in a very rustic Posada with spectacular views and amazing food.

View from our Hammocks.

The next morning, we hiked along the dirt road looking for a flour mill, which we didn’t find, but we’re rewarded with a nice relaxing break by a cool mountain stream. After lunch the 4&1/2 hr return trip to Merida was by 4X4 Toyota Landcruiser. The dirt road was pretty hair raising most of the way, narrow with sharp hairpin turns, areas deeply rutted by rain, & some parts even washed away. We seemed to descend down & down only to have to climb up again. Our driver was excellent. He really knew how to handle the terrain. Fortunately the awe of the surrounding scenery helped keep our minds off the road. Once back in Merida it was time to rest our aching muscles and prepare for our next adventure.
Till next time,
Miriam