Saturday November 24th. The forecast was not perfect but at 8:20 am we decided to leave. We checked the chart and decided that we could head to the far western end of Tortuga to the little islands known as Las Tortuguillas. It looked like an anchorage we could approach in the dark and we would have the light of the full moon to guide us.
By 9am. the anchor was up and we motored out of the protection of our little bay. If things were bad, we could always turn back. Due to the morning land effects, there was absolutely no wind or waves as we motor sailed out of the larger bay and into the Mar Carib (Caribbean Sea). By 11:30 am we’d covered 15 miles, then I noticed some white caps on the water ahead of us. By the time I said to Pat, “I see some white caps ahead, I hope there’s some wind to go with them”, we were sailing under a reefed main and genny. Our course was 330°, the wind was from about 080° at 17 knots and seas were 3 – 4 feet from the East. Life does not get much better than this. By 12:20 pm, Pat put a second reef in the main. We thoroughly enjoyed the rest of the afternoon under clear blue skies. We did not see under 7 knots of boat speed for the rest of the trip (thanks to the 1 knot current). Our wind speed averaged 18 knots, with the highest gust to 23; seas were variable, but mostly 5 -8 feet with the occasional 10 footer.
I remembered how much I love sailing! The day went by very quickly and we watched the sunset while in the lee of Tortuga. There are no anchorages along this coast that we would be able to enter in the dark. After we cleared the southwest corner of Tortuga , we beat to windward for the last 2.5 miles before anchoring in 20 feet of water behind Los Tortuguillos (the little turtles). In the moonlight, we could make out the sandy beach ahead of us and see the waves breaking over the reef to the west. It’s hard to image seeking shelter behind something not much better than a sand bar, but it knocked down the waves as the wind howled all night. It was reassuring to know that 3 fishing boats sought shelter in the same spot that night. After setting the anchor drag alarm and having a hot meal, we easily fell off to sleep.
Fair Winds
Miriam
10°57.7 N
65°26.1 W
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
End of October, Early November
After our memorable trip to Angel Falls, it was great to get back to Rhiannon. Plans were made to meet the kids in Bonaire for Christmas, approximately 300 nautical miles away. There’s a lot to see and do between here & there. On October 28th we left the Cumanagoto Marina to start the journey West. Our first stop was an anchorage area known as El Coral on the island of Caracas del Oeste, one of the many uninhabited islands of the Mochima National Park. (Venezuela has lots of Parques Nacionales). We were rewarded with beautiful clear water and great snorkeling right off the boat as well as peace and solitude. Tropical Storm Noel (later Hurricane Noel) formed that day 240 miles north of us. It was nice not to have to worry about finding a Hurricane Hole for a change; but you still worry about all the potential threats to the areas in his path. After sailing amongst numerous islands and dolphins, our next anchorage was a neat little mangrove lined hideaway surrounded by tall rugged cliffs called Ciéneguita on the island of Chimana Grande. The next day we motored to Playa El Faro, a beach on Isla Chimana Segunda. There’s grass shade huts on the beach, a little restaurant and a small Policia Turistica station. We hate to leave the peace and quiet of lonely anchorages, but it is not prudent to stay in one place for more than a couple of days, especially if you are alone. Although we have not had any incidents, and none reported in the area, there is still a slim concern of banditos or pirates.
Playa El Faro
Thursday, November 1st. We got settled into a berth at Bahia Redonda Marina in Puerta La Cruz, close to the swimming pool and the east gate. It will be November 19th before we leave. We see many friends that we have met during our travels and made new ones. Sandcastle left to head north for the winter and leant us their Air Conditioner. I never thought we would have A/C on the boat but it was a Godsend. There was never a breath of air in the marina and average temperatures were over 90° F or 32° C. Since we had some boat projects to do, the cool air allowed us more energy to complete them. Not all cruising is exploring and relaxing in secluded anchorages. Remember one definition of Cruising is Yacht Maintenance in Exotic Places. Our major projects included the purchase of 4 additional batteries for our house bank, therefore Pat had to build a box under the seat at the Nav Station to contain them. We also built a bed in the aft cabin, and made some new privacy curtains for when Erin comes to visit (since the aft cabin had been converted to the equivalent of a storage barn when we left). I forgot to mention that Erin will be staying with us on the boat for a few months. We are really looking forward to her company: just wish her brother could join us for more than a week. Oh well, someone in the Family has to have a job.
Time went by very quickly in Puerta La Cruz. I can understand why so many cruisers like to come here to spend the Hurricane Season. We finally untie the lines to the dock on Monday November 19th with plans to stage from one of the little outer islands before heading to Isla La Tortuga. As all plans are subject to change, we delayed our departure for the 65 mile sail till Saturday, November 24th. Pat picked up some kind of bug and was knocked off his feet for a few days. Then the weather did not cooperate as a large north swell with 8 to 10 foot seas and 5 to 6 foot wind chop accompanied by NE winds blowing 20 – 25 & gusts to 30 knots made me decide I did not want to be a solo sailor. We waited till Pat was feeling better and the sea state was more favourable.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
10°17.4’ N
64°39.0’ W
Ciéneguita, Chimana Grande, Venezuela
Playa El FaroThursday, November 1st. We got settled into a berth at Bahia Redonda Marina in Puerta La Cruz, close to the swimming pool and the east gate. It will be November 19th before we leave. We see many friends that we have met during our travels and made new ones. Sandcastle left to head north for the winter and leant us their Air Conditioner. I never thought we would have A/C on the boat but it was a Godsend. There was never a breath of air in the marina and average temperatures were over 90° F or 32° C. Since we had some boat projects to do, the cool air allowed us more energy to complete them. Not all cruising is exploring and relaxing in secluded anchorages. Remember one definition of Cruising is Yacht Maintenance in Exotic Places. Our major projects included the purchase of 4 additional batteries for our house bank, therefore Pat had to build a box under the seat at the Nav Station to contain them. We also built a bed in the aft cabin, and made some new privacy curtains for when Erin comes to visit (since the aft cabin had been converted to the equivalent of a storage barn when we left). I forgot to mention that Erin will be staying with us on the boat for a few months. We are really looking forward to her company: just wish her brother could join us for more than a week. Oh well, someone in the Family has to have a job.
Time went by very quickly in Puerta La Cruz. I can understand why so many cruisers like to come here to spend the Hurricane Season. We finally untie the lines to the dock on Monday November 19th with plans to stage from one of the little outer islands before heading to Isla La Tortuga. As all plans are subject to change, we delayed our departure for the 65 mile sail till Saturday, November 24th. Pat picked up some kind of bug and was knocked off his feet for a few days. Then the weather did not cooperate as a large north swell with 8 to 10 foot seas and 5 to 6 foot wind chop accompanied by NE winds blowing 20 – 25 & gusts to 30 knots made me decide I did not want to be a solo sailor. We waited till Pat was feeling better and the sea state was more favourable.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
10°17.4’ N
64°39.0’ W
Ciéneguita, Chimana Grande, Venezuela
Pictures October 2007
Pool at the base of the Angel Falls, Salto Angel
the tallest waterfall in the world.
A 4 hour canoe trip followed by a 1.5 hour hike through the jungle to get here.
Early morning view of Angel Falls
from our camp.
A freshing morning shower in the
Happiness Pool,
on our way back down the river.
Leaving on a Cessna
Canaima Lagoon and the 7 Waterfalls
Incredible!
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Angel Falls
What an adventure! I could write a mini novel 
describing our trip of a lifetime, but I’ll try to be brief. Our trip inland started on Sunday October 21st with a 6 hour bus ride from Cumana to Ciudad Bolivar. Our friends Bev & Ross from Raft were with us. The next morning we boarded a 5 passenger Cessna for the 1 hour 15 minute flight over the Savanna, the Orinoco River Delta, the Tepuis and numerous mountains before arriving in Canaima.
Canaima is an Indian Village that is part of the Parque Nacional.
describing our trip of a lifetime, but I’ll try to be brief. Our trip inland started on Sunday October 21st with a 6 hour bus ride from Cumana to Ciudad Bolivar. Our friends Bev & Ross from Raft were with us. The next morning we boarded a 5 passenger Cessna for the 1 hour 15 minute flight over the Savanna, the Orinoco River Delta, the Tepuis and numerous mountains before arriving in Canaima.
Canaima is an Indian Village that is part of the Parque Nacional.
From here we had a boat ride across the Canaima Lagoon, crossing in front of a series of 7 waterfalls before arriving at the Tomas Bernal Basecamp on Isla Anatoliy.
After relaxing in our hammocks & enjoying a wonderful lunch, we joined another group for a half hour hike to Sapo (frog) and Sapito (small frog) Falls. Sapo Falls is 40 meters high by 80 meters wide. Our first thrill of the trip was walking behind the Falls. The roar of rushing water was almost deafening as we cautiously inched our way to the other side.
The Brink of Sapo Falls
Trail Behind Sapo Falls Looking out from behind the Falls
That night we slept in our hammocks under the shelter of a thatched roof hut.
Tuesday morning our group of 10, our guide Jose, 
our boat driver Joel and his assistant loaded into
the motorized dugout canoe for the 4 & ½
hour ride up the rivers Carrao & Churun to the
Island Raton. We walked around the first set of
rapids while the boat powered through them.
After that there was no mercy.
Zooming along at top speed with a 45 hp engine,
we basically were white water canoeing though
the too numerous to mention rapids as well as enjoying the scenery during the flat water spells. I still have a smile on my face remembering the thrills as we careened around rocks and through canyons, not to mention the fresh water splashing and soaking us on a regular basis...
Yes, the boat wet through here.
Early afternoon we began the 1 & ½ hour hike through the jungle to Salto Angel. It was a rugged climb, far more challenging than we expected but what a feeling of accomplishment when we stood by the natural pool at the base of the Falls. Pat and the others swam in the cooling waters while I nursed a nasty gash on my shin. (In the excitement of approaching the falls, I slipped on the wet rocks).
That night we enjoyed a roasted chicken dinner prepared by our guides on an open fire barbeque. The camp was very rustic compared to the base camp at Canaima but the full view of Angel Falls across the river was spectacular. Again, we slept in hammocks. I wish we had space on the boat for hammocks, they are sooo comfortable.
Wednesday morning we enjoyed the return trip down the rivers with an early morning stop at the Happiness Pool for a swim. After lunch, we loaded onto another Cessna for the flight back to Ciudad Bolivar. I wish the tour didn’t have to end; it would have been nice to spend another evening at the base camp. Well the purpose of the tour was to visit the Angel Falls, which are the Tallest in the World, however the rest of the trip was just as exciting and rewarding and only added another dimension to the thrill & enjoyment. (the internet is not co-operataing so I will have to post more pictures in another entry)
Till next time.
Miriam
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Monday October 15th
We headed to the most eastern part of the Golfo to the Rio Cariaco and anchored in 10 feet of water before taking the dingy up the River as far as we could go. There are more different species of birds than we will ever be able to identify but the highlight is the Scarlet Ibis. We saw some of these birds in Trinidad but not to the extent that we did in this spot.
We headed to the most eastern part of the Golfo to the Rio Cariaco and anchored in 10 feet of water before taking the dingy up the River as far as we could go. There are more different species of birds than we will ever be able to identify but the highlight is the Scarlet Ibis. We saw some of these birds in Trinidad but not to the extent that we did in this spot.
At dusk, hundreds of these red birds come to 
roost for the night in an area at the mouth of the river. The trees look like Christmas trees covered in red. The biggest bummer is that the battery died in the camera so we were unable to get a picture of the trees. When I got up at 6 am, the trees were still littered with birds but by the time I got the camera out, they had all flown away. Thank goodness we have memories. Not everything can be caught in photos.
roost for the night in an area at the mouth of the river. The trees look like Christmas trees covered in red. The biggest bummer is that the battery died in the camera so we were unable to get a picture of the trees. When I got up at 6 am, the trees were still littered with birds but by the time I got the camera out, they had all flown away. Thank goodness we have memories. Not everything can be caught in photos.Tuesday October 16th
After a lazy 6 hour downwind sail (heading west), the wind swung to the West and we covered the last 7 miles to Laguna Grande in less than an hour, heeled at 20 ° & accompanied by a pod of dolphins. Dolphins abound in the Golfo but only seem to be interested in swimming with you when you’re doing hull speed.
It is our 3rd visit to this incredible lagoon. Pat’s back had been bothering him during our last visits, so now that it was better, we returned to do the trek up the ridge. It’s hard to imagine the contrast of the rainforests to our south and the desert mountains to our north. Every evening we watch the lightening shows and rainstorms to the south while we are high & dry a few miles away in a desert landscape. A truly magical country.
After a lazy 6 hour downwind sail (heading west), the wind swung to the West and we covered the last 7 miles to Laguna Grande in less than an hour, heeled at 20 ° & accompanied by a pod of dolphins. Dolphins abound in the Golfo but only seem to be interested in swimming with you when you’re doing hull speed.
It is our 3rd visit to this incredible lagoon. Pat’s back had been bothering him during our last visits, so now that it was better, we returned to do the trek up the ridge. It’s hard to imagine the contrast of the rainforests to our south and the desert mountains to our north. Every evening we watch the lightening shows and rainstorms to the south while we are high & dry a few miles away in a desert landscape. A truly magical country.
Wednesday we started our climb up the ridge around 9 am and enjoyed a perfect morning of clear skies and a fair breeze to help keep us cool. The panoramic views were out of this world. I still can’t believe how amazing this landscape is!!!
Can you 
find Rhiannon?
find Rhiannon?
Isla de Margarita is 20 miles to the north.
Thursday morning we hated to leave but the Angel Falls were waiting.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.
Still Behind - October 10th
October 10th.While in Medregal Village we organized a bus trip with some of the other cruisers to go to Caripe & the Guacharo Cave.
The cave is eight miles long and one of the world’s largest caves. It is inhabited by about 18,000 guacharo birds that live in the dark and echo-locate like bats. They only come out at night to feed on fruits. The first part of our tour was very noisy with the sound of the birds but as we trekked deeper into the cave, the only sound
was the trickling of water from the stalactites
and stalagmites. It was utterly incredible.
The Exit/Entrance to the Guacharo Cave
The all day bus trip though the mountainous countryside and rainforests was more than breathtaking. The more we see of Venezuela, the more we love it.
The diverse landscapes are amazing. But to top it all off, the people are what really makes the difference. You just have to come here yourself to discover how warm and welcoming the Venezuelan people are. I think we have found our favourite country. (But I’m getting ahead of myself).Fair Winds,
Miriam
I am very very behind in updating the blog but here goes.
Medregal Village
10°31.96’ N
63°48.00’ W
October 3rd. After a very relaxing stay in Laguna Grande & a trip to Cumana to restock with groceries etc. we headed east down the Golfo de Cariaco to check out Medregal Village. Medregal is a small resort and boat yard who really welcomes cruisers and invites you to anchor your boat in front of the resort. For the price of the occasional beer, you are able to use all the facilities. We spent a lot of time lounging around the pool and accessing the free internet at the poolside bar.
10°31.96’ N
63°48.00’ W
October 3rd. After a very relaxing stay in Laguna Grande & a trip to Cumana to restock with groceries etc. we headed east down the Golfo de Cariaco to check out Medregal Village. Medregal is a small resort and boat yard who really welcomes cruisers and invites you to anchor your boat in front of the resort. For the price of the occasional beer, you are able to use all the facilities. We spent a lot of time lounging around the pool and accessing the free internet at the poolside bar.
The unbelievable thing was that it was a serve yourself bar and you just wrote down on your tab what you had. We felt like we were staying at an all inclusive resort. Jean Marc is the owner and chief cook at the restaurant. Saturday nights he cooks up a special Bar-B-Q for the cruisers. He also provides transportation to the local market on Sat. mornings to stock up on fresh supplies. I have only mentioned a few of the perks that Jean Marc and his wife Joleda provide. It is an incredible place!!!
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.
Fair Winds,
Miriam
& Pat says Hi.
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